Holsclaw Boat Trailer Serial Number
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- Holsclaw Bros. Manufactured boat trailers and went out of business during the 1980's. *We do our best to make sure this data is acurate and up to date. If you find an error or if you want to add/update information please contact us.
- Mar 04, 2008 The VIN number on most smaller boat trailers ( 12-15 foot single axle trailers) Was on an aluminum foil type sticker, usually on the upright section of the trailer( the part that holds the winch and bow roller) on the left side.(drivers side of towing vehicle) If the trailer is more than 10 years old, it's probably not legable any more.
Holsclaw Trailer - Moderated Discussion Areas Holsclaw Trailer Author Topic: Holsclaw Trailer Chap posted 09:40 AM ET (US) Hello, Is anybody familiar with Holsclaw Trailers. I'm told they are not made currently but how about quality? Parts available? Could probably retrofit.
Specifically, one I saw sitting under a 1989 22 Outrage. It is a keel roller with rows of small soft wheels instead of bunks.
It appears in fine shape and sturdy. Any info, opinions, value estimate would be helpful and greatly appreciated. Thanks Chap Arch Autenreith posted 10:35 AM ET (US) Chap I happen to have a Holsclaw motorcycle trailer.
Parts easily available as most things are interchangeable. Can't comment on their boat trailer specifically, though.
Hope this helps. Arch Peter posted 11:10 AM ET (US) My recollection was that Holsclaws were a top brand and at least in my area many were seen supporting Whalers. KCarlsen posted 08:39 PM ET (US) I just restored one for my 1969 classic and it is an excellent trailer.
It has four coil springs and two shocks so the boat travels down the road sitting on a pillow. I replaced the side rollers with carpeted bunks and have all the weight sitting on the center keel rollers.
The hardest part to find was the shocks. I ended up using Monroe shocks that had the same extention and shaft length. The trailer is well built and has many, many adjustments to fit all style boats. They don't make them like this anymore. Just my 2 cents. Kurt Chesapeake posted 11:00 AM ET (US) Replaced a rusted out Holsclaw last year with an EZ loader. Had a really difficult time finding parts.
As I recall, the line was purchased by another company out in Iowa, I think. They offered parts, but I think you will really have to dig to find them. I really didn't like my particular trailer as the width between the axles was fairly short. As such, the trailer got blown around pretty good on the highway in windy weather. Sorcerer posted 11:19 AM ET (US) Holschaw and Cox were top line trailers.
A trailer is a trailer you need parts go to a trailer supply operation (springs, axles, hubs,brakes,bearings,all can be interchanged with OEM). You need the frame fixed go to a welder. Unless the frame is trashed you'll have a hard time finding a 'new' one any where close to the solid construction of these! You need to modify it to carry a Boston Whaler because they forgot to build the hull solid enough (god forbid might have added 15-20lbs to the hull weight)! Then read all the old post on how to set it up, as outlined by the 'experts' on the forum and site. Chris posted 02:19 PM ET (US) Holsclaw was top shelf.
If they still made them I would own one now. Also I agree with the previous post trailer parts are nothing more than welds, nuts and bolts, so parts are not a problem.
Chap posted 02:31 PM ET (US) Thanks to all for the info. I agree that trailers in general are erector sets, but I desired some insight into the company and structure of the trailer itself. It seemed beefy at first blush but some vindication always helps. Thanks again. Chap andygere posted 05:44 PM ET (US) Here's a great source for trailer parts: Thanks go to LHG for sharing this great resource with the forum.Andy bigz posted 07:12 AM ET (US) LHG?
Sorry Andy - dodgebo posted 04:39 PM ET (US) Hey Chesapeake, do you know the name and/or phone # of the outfit that you think bought Holsclaw out? I'm looking for a couple of their hubcaps to fit a 12' wheel.
OR, anyone out there with good, straight hubcaps to sell? Respond to this forum or call 360-679-6608. Corvette posted 12:08 PM ET (US) I just read a few blogs on the Holsclaw Motorcycle trailers, i just purchased onde a couple of weeks ago and want to restore it! It was made in 1981 and is in great shape!, im looking for the baby moon hub cap that is missing, anybody have any ideas, i really like the way this trailer pulls and the way it is built with the springs!, i saw one ad on ebay that someone was selling a brosure on Harley Davison motorcycle and you had a choice of a free Holsclaw trailer or a radio! Man was it good back then or what?, anyway i want to restore the trailer to original so if anyonehas any info please let me know? Thanks Jack 13sport posted 01:59 PM ET (US) this info may help someone PeteB88 posted 02:43 PM ET (US) I think Holsclaw trailers are awesome, had one for years under my vintage Grumman Combo II built in the 60s: combination row/ power and sailboat just under 14ft long w/ centerboard and 18 ft mast.
I used the Holsclaw for my 11.5 for a couple years and it was great. The funky springs and mini-shock absorbers on each wheel made for an exceptionally smooth, cushy ride. Never any harsh bouncing and stuff in the boat was never scrambled all over the place after road time. I wish I could find one for the 13.
Corvette posted 06:44 PM ET (US) Hey 13sport Thank You for the info! If you know anyone that might have any conections to Holsclaw let me know? Thanks Again Jack MikeA57 posted 11:03 AM ET (US) Holsclaw went out of business around 1984 or '85 from what I've been able to find out. I don't know of anyone that has an inventory of parts for them.
They are fantastic trailers though and I took mine apart several years ago to refurbish but other things kept me from finishing it. Today though I'm taking my 1956 model to a local powder coater and I'm really excited about it.I hope to have it and the boat back together by February or March so I can use the boat this spring for some fishing. Tohsgib posted 11:20 AM ET (US) I have a cox under my 13' which is a 1982 and I JUST replaced the original springs and axle couple weeks ago. I think they are nolonger or at least not making boat trailers anymore.
Trailer is still in great shape and you can actually stand on the 27 year old fenders. Ernest posted 10:45 AM ET (US) Arch, just come across an old holsclaws bike trailer.I was very interested in it's construction as I fabricate steel as a hobby.I never saw or heard of a holsclaws trailer. I am trying to covert it to a 5x8 hauling trailer.I need the spring support mounts on the bottom of the springs that hold the springs to the axal-rusted away.Also need shocks, can I use a longer shock?
Anybody, please advise. Ernest Ernest posted 10:56 AM ET (US) Kurt, I read your posting and TKS. I need to get shocks for my trailer. What number monroe shock did you use to replace your originals.And my spring holding plate has rusted. Without fabricating new,do you know whowould have them?
This is the small plate that holds the spring on to the axle.Ernest. TransAm posted 11:44 AM ET (US) Ahh, this thread is like, 7 1/2 years old. Tohsgib posted 03:53 PM ET (US) That's the whole point of the forum archives T/A.
TransAm posted 04:54 PM ET (US) A 7 year old thread is certainly worth reviewing. Responding to a 7 1/2 year old post.well, perhaps Arch and Kurt are lurking and will chime in after being dormant for so many years and be able to help out. Tohsgib posted 11:41 PM ET (US) You replied didn'nt ya! Ya never know what will happen with a 7 year old thread.
Some get some decent info. Chap posted 09:51 PM ET (US) The trailer and boat are still kickin'.
Hey Big, did you catch that they relit Old Barney. Chap Tohsgib posted 11:49 AM ET (US) When? Kinger posted 08:00 PM ET (US) I have a 1986 Holesclaw trailer and canot find the VIN number. Does anyone know where it is hidden? NHHobie posted 12:51 AM ET (US) Kinger: There should be an info plate on the winch stand.
Can't miss it. Hobie PeteB88 posted 10:14 AM ET (US) If you haven't found a maker's plate it is probably not there. My Holesclaw had a plate but all you could make out was Holesclaw. I wish I still had it for my 11.5, Don't trip on it.
IF you're trying to register it contact your Secretary of State office or equivalent - they will make you a registration. You will probably have to get it weighed - at least that's the deal in Michigan.
Oregon does (or did) not require trailers to be licensed. Jcdjr1948 posted 08:09 AM ET (US) I also have a holsclaw trailer, 1100lb gvw, don't have the model no. With me but I think it is a c-590. I also need new shocks for this trailer, the ones on it have rusted and broken apart. Any info on which Monroe shock absorber will fit? NHHobie posted 12:46 PM ET (US) I think that you may actually have model C-950. My owners manual rates that as having a 1100 lb capacity.
Anyway here is the shock info you need. These shocks are also for the D-1250, D-1275 & D-1475 models. NAPA/Monroe p/n 555002 Its listed as an RV shock. P/n 650-1100 Bolt kit.
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You'll need 2 of each of the above.:-) Hope this helps. Hobie jcdjr1948 posted 04:47 PM ET (US) Hobie, Thanks for the info. This will help a lot!
Rescuediver posted 02:27 PM ET (US) Some trailer tires and rims can be found at, of all places Walmart. For tires alone and $60. For rim & tire ready to go. Didn't belief it until I saw it alanPul posted 04:20 AM ET (US) Just purchased a holsclaw trailer the VIN is on a tag on the tongue, but is either worn off as is mine or faded due to weather and age. Thru your BMV they will advise you as to receiving a new VIN, what steps to take. I have had to do it a couple of times for title and plating purposes. Once you get a new VIN # and with letter and number stamps I clean an area down to the bare metal and stamp the new NUMBER after which I repaint the area.
I usually place the number on the tongue on top as it is visible and easier to do. It will not fade or get scraped off.
More permanent, most trailer manufacturers affix the vins in this manner. Most trailer parts are fairly universal as such pretty easy to replace. Bearings, seals and such can be gotten from any good supplier, just need the numbers otherwise take the old part and they will measure and match up for you. I do that on a regular basis. My trailer will be sandblasted and powder coated as it is in good shape just a little rusty. Dabco37 posted 07:10 PM ET (US) we are looking for an axle for a holsclaw model #1475 which is square with hubs on either end that contain races and bearings.
Any one have any idea where we can locate one, any web site that would have specs or replacement parts, any info on anything on a holsclaw trailer?
I've never read the Glen-L book on building wood-frame trailers, and am not too sure how the DMV would like that, but am willing to consider all or partial wood frame elements. I understand that commercial trailers exist with all or most of these elements, but prices are usually well over $1200 for the Trailex aluminum models with spare tire, winch stand and winch. It wouldn't be remotely strong enough to handle the weight and forces of trailering unless it was massively thick! My Aeroflow trailer has torsion suspension, and is scary to tow empty as it will do repeated 3' vertical hops on bad freeway sections. Remember, once you get the trailer license and title you can modify or upgrade it virtually anyway you want with no hassle from the authorities. Their suspension is rated for around 1000lbs (the Feds made them drop the rating from 1350lbs after multiple failures and accidents), and is WAY too stiff for a lightweight wooden boat. I trailer a lot of miles annually, which is another reason why I spec'd commercial axles, bearings and wheels.
BBSebens, 11:41 PMSuspension is the biggest problem in the small wooden boat trailer world. I realize this really doesn't fit Thorne's design brief but is one of the few options for our light (and often precious!) boats. When I salvaged an extremely rusty Holsclaw trailer I was struck by the higher part count, the higher number of operations going into build each part, the higher number of connections and assembly operations, the higher position in which the boat had to be carried, all for the potentially higher amplitude of load motion.
Holsclaw Trailer Pics
I'd guess that we might start seeing some pretty small used jet ski trailers on the market which might fill the bill with minimum mods. Nicholas Scheuer, 11:49 AMIf you go with one of the kit trailers like Dave and Keith suggest, I'd strongly urge a $30 investment in a swivel-wheel tongue jack.
It seems to me to be a problem mainly of finding springs that are not too stiff for a light boat. Again, this trailer design question isn't for my immediate needs - I have two that should work OK for my boats. But when the road ran up onto the top of the levee along the Sacramento River, the wind was blowing across the river with gusts over 70mph, and the boat and trailer were blown up onto one wheel at around 30 degrees - the maximum that the towball would allow. Ben Fuller, 12:19 PMYou can download articles from Wooden Boat for very little money, dimes I think, so it would be easy to get a copy of the full article if you have no archive. Thorne, 08:44 AMJohn L - the Holsclaw is a wonderful trailer, so if you can get yours fixed up it will be well worth the money.
Juniper - While the PWC trailers might be OK for adding a longer tongue for heavier wooden boats, I don't see any rated for less than 1200 lbs, and many higher - which probably indicates the use of 2000lb leaf springs. One of my brothers mentioned putting steel heavy steel bars on my trailer to bring the load closer to the rating.
Canoeyawl, 10:27 AMThere is a problem of using excessive padding or cushioning between the trailer and the boat. Dave Wright, 11:53 AMThorne, you sure seem impressed with the old Holsclaw trailers.
For my purposes the King y frame trailer rated at 700 lbs (I assume gross) would be an attractive option. So there is probably a lot we aren't taking into consideration here, from the perspective of actual forces acting on the wooden boat hull. I remember once crossing a set of railroad tracks, pulling a Hobie 14 (250 lbs) on the standard-issue, leaf spring trailer. The strap (about 4' long) spans a gap in the trailer bracket and the axle is attached to the strap. Its not a lot of weight, maybe 100lbs I think, Steel or lead bolted to the frame of the trailer. It would be nice to have a very lightweight trailer for a very lightweight (say 350 pound) boat, but stock hardware tends to be heavy. Seems to me the only way to get this may be to load any old trailer down to capacity with weights and then put the boat on it.
With full length support and nice long padded bunks that are just set to stabilize but not take significant weight you can cinch the boat down pretty hard so that even if the trailer bounces, the boat goes with it without bouncing on the trailer. I seem to recall he uses a fairly light weight flat bed trailer and props the boat up with fenders.
If the trailer had rollers down the middle a carpeted 2 x 4 fits neatly in those welded on brackets. I imagine the trailer frame weighs a couple of hundred pounds, lumber platform and ballast weights about 250, boat weight 200 max. As for something like the Yakima trailer, that would be great if we could source the parts separately. We see a couple of those gorgeous light aluminum trailers with motorcycle wheels every year at the big canoe shows, but a couple grand for a little trailer is far more than I'd ever spend on one. That is not to say that HF trailers don't have their place, and I see a lot of them in use by boaters who do under 1000 miles of trailering a year. So I'd be really wary of trying to invent something completely new for boat trailer suspension - again, I want to be responsible and protect my boat and other motorists. And my EZLoader galvanized trailer may be rated for 1000lbs, but it seems to handle my 350lb dory skiff without bouncing too badly on everything but very bumpy roads.
If'n I wanted a trailer like you want, Thorne, I'd just start collecting bits and make one. An interesting design, but I'd modify it to take a commercial boat trailer axle and the lightest leafsprings possible. I suspect that this would not have happened had I been towing my dory skiff (350lbs or so) on the galvanized EZLoader trailer (200lbs or so). Dave W - we'd probably all like that, as the Trailex trailers seem to be the only commercial ones easily available with a suspension rated at less than 1000lbs.
Thorne, 10:14 AMThat is a possible solution, but certainly not optimal as you may reach a point in an emergency stop or turn where the additional weight (no matter how low on the trailer frame) could cause serious problems. Commonly trailer trailer bunks are secured with one bolt forward and one bolt aft, and that is where additional cushioning coud easily be provided, especially for a light load. Eric Hvalsoe, 10:35 AMIf I do disassemble the trailer I imagine taking one of the original leaf springs down to Craigs and have the old man tell me what he thinks of it - how he might rate it.
Whenever the padding absorbs a shock, the boat is loose on the trailer and will likely shift. A light duty trailer is going to be light weight and potentially unstable in cross winds, and a heavy(er) trailer is going to be too stiff for our little boats. Then I cinch the boat down pretty hard; becoming one with the trailer and no point loading is the goal. To control point loading aft, I get the boat on the trailer then bring the roller up so it just kisses the keel. Cushioning the boat on an overly stiff trailer certainly might be a good idea, but it's treating the symptoms of the problem, not addressing the cause. I'm very happy with my current galvanized Road Runner trailer made in BC Canada and very similar to EZ Loader but less money.
Canoeyawl, 09:48 PMMore than once I have bought an old 'glass skiff on a trailer for a couple hundred bucks. I wanted to raise another issue at this point, which is that boat trailers can be too lightweight for some trailering conditions.
Todd Bradshaw, 10:46 PMThe problem with that is that it doesn't solve the bouncing on bumps, constant rattle and clang and jerking on your bumper that comes with towing an underloaded trailer. For something like a boat trailer that may be moved empty, and in most cases when loaded with small wooden boats doesn't come within 50% of the weight limit of the torsion axle, it could be disastrous - which is why you don't see any of the commercial boat trailers with those axles. The overly spendy thule (rack and roll) trailer uses coilover shocks and a super simple trailing arm with no axle connecting the sides. But I notice that the King trailers that I linked to back a ways all seem to have torsion axles.
There are a lot of triangles in that trailer, and some of them might be acting as torsion springs as well. However, the whole thing is so light that it flies around as a single, light unit and there's no mass to strain the boat. One possibility for an ultralight trailer would be to find a couple identical mountainbike frames with full suspension, get some schedule 40 alu pipe, and do some welding.
It seems that we are coming to a point: Every trailer is a compromise, much the same as the boats themselves. Rich Jones, 03:33 PMSomeone mentioned that Trailex recommends lower tire pressure. Seems to me any commercial trailer, or trailer parts that you buy or build up, are going in be in the 1000 pound load category or heavier. Ben Fuller, 09:11 AMWhat I don't like about the trailex trailers is that it is hard to build in padded full length keel support. First and foremost remember that the trailer suspension, as pointed out earlier, supports both the weight of the boat AND trailer - so if you can get the dealer to give you the overall weight of the trailer you can add that to the weight of the boat to see how much load you place on the suspension.
Or, you might reflect further on how a modified bunk system or other support system can provide further cushioning on a standard trailer - without being specific and without actually doing the design, I have to think that the two big springs and three shock absorbers on the old Holsclaw trailer might switch on some mental light bulbs for a not too complex bunk suspension arrangement. The dolly system has an additional benefit besides the ability to make nice custom bunks and supports: it lets you launch on real shallow beaches where you can't get the trailer in deeply enough.
It's a superb trailer and nothing using leaf springs will ever even be remotely close when it comes to a smooth, quiet ride. If you decide to respring your trailer, lightening the springing, a custom trailer fabricator could figure out what would be needed. Thorne, 09:48 AMFor dories and other boats with flat bottoms, I usually just attach a 2x12 covered with carpet to the backbone of the trailer For trailers like the Trailex you can use blocks to brace the plank. Mine is very hefty, but a guy who built a Slider sister ship found a johnboat trailer that was narrow enough that the hulls sit outside the wheels, so that he can use a much shallower ramp than I can.
Thorne, 11:20 AMI've repaired boats that were dropped in storage, so I'm a bit sensitive to that issue. As for tongue weight, I go with 10-15%, but often have to position the boat further aft on the trailer than the stock supports cover.
You've owned an old style Holsclaw trailer which you liked, and which you feel provides suitable suspension. I think it's the first time I have seen a design available for home build of a trailer trolley combination. If you can move the axle a little then you can have the bow of the boat pretty close to the towing vehicle so you don't have quite such a long load. You own an EZ Loader galvanized trailer which you like, but you want additional shock absorbtion for a light boat. Thorne, 08:25 AM(grin) Yeah, I once lost an entire wheel off my little utility trailer on the M5 south of Worcester.
Thorne, 04:19 PMI actually don't mind the distance between bow and hitch, as it allows launching on bad ramps and beaches without submerging the car's exhaust in salt water, and gives you room to hop up on the trailer tongue to get out to the winch stand. Providing additional suspension at the bunks might appeal to you in that it would not alter or compromise the road worthiness of the conventional EZ Loader or other trailer. After years of dragging around a rusted thing I built out of the small HF trailer, I finally got one of the Trailex singles. I pull the rollers and put in a padded wide full length keel support, then am real careful adusting the side bunks so that they stabilize but don't significantly support the boat. This would also allow me to remove the lights and store them in the car before launching the boat, thereby keeping them dry.